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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to i) a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, using a) at least one oxidized polysaccharide, in particular oxidized inulin and b) at least one (poly) saccharide with amino group (s); ii) a composition comprising ingredients a) and b); iii) the use of a) and b) to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair and iv) a multi-compartment kit or device comprising a) and b). The invention makes it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties for conditioning the hair, with a lasting effect over time.
    公开号:FR3033498A1
    申请号:FR1552066
    申请日:2015-03-12
    公开日:2016-09-16
    发明作者:Andrew Greaves；Nawel Baghdadli；Lucien BILDSTEIN；Berangere Baril
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The invention relates to (i) a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, by means of which the keratinous fibers (such as at least one oxidized polysaccharide, in particular oxidized inulin and b) at least one (poly) saccharide containing amine group (s); ii) a composition comprising ingredients a) and b); iii) the use of a) and b) to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair and iv) a multi-compartment kit or device comprising a) and b). The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, sun and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms , straightening, repeated washing. The hair is thus damaged by these various factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull or split or soft. Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is customary to resort to hair care which uses compositions intended to condition the hair in a suitable manner by providing them with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, shine, softness to the touch (a natural touch, the hair is no longer coarse), flexibility, lightness, good disentangling properties inducing ease to combing, good hair discipline and have a good shaping. These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, after shampoos, masks, serums. However, the conditioning effect obtained fades during successive shampoos and does not show satisfactory shampoo persistence. It is known to use care compositions comprising reducing sugars, such as monosaccharides, used as conditioning agents, in particular for repairing keratin fibers which have been damaged by aggressive treatments. Indeed, the patent application US 2002/0193264 discloses a process for packaging keratinous fibers, wherein is applied to said fibers at least one sugar selected from monosaccharides and is carried out a step of heating the keratinous fibers. Similarly, the patent application US 2002/0172653 discloses a process for conditioning keratinous fibers comprising a step of applying to said fibers a sugar chosen from particular monosaccharides in 05-07 and a heating step of keratinous fibers.
    [0002] However, the use of reducing sugars followed by a heat treatment can cause an undesired change in the color of the keratinous fibers. In addition, the reducing sugars are easily degraded, especially under the action of shampoos, which has the consequence that the cosmetic properties imparted to the fibers are not persistent. Thus keratinous fibers are not protected, repaired or cosmetically transformed in a sustainable manner. In the field of coloring, it is known from patent application FR 2 944 967 the use of oxidized polysaccharides to protect the color of keratin fibers which have been artificially dyed. There is also known from the international application VVO 2013/132062 a hair treatment process, which consists of using one or more oxidized polysaccharides and raising the temperature of the keratinous fibers. The patent application US 2003-0053977 also describes a method for protecting keratin fibers which uses heat and a glucosamine. Nevertheless, the results obtained are still unsatisfactory in terms of repairing, protecting or conditioning the keratinous fibers, in particular the damaged and / or sensitized hair, in particular in terms of the surface softness of said fibers, in particular at the dry ends, or are still satisfactory for disentangling wet keratin fibers. There is therefore a real need to develop a composition and a method for treating keratinous fibers such as the hair that is capable of conditioning and / or protecting the hair in a sustainable manner and without causing a change in their color. It is also of interest to find a means of treating damaged keratinous fibers by repairing them, that is to say by improving the cosmetics of keratin fibers intrinsically, of reducing the breakage of keratinous fibers and / or of preventing the breakdown of keratin fibers. breaks keratinous fibers. This technical problem (s) has (have) been solved by the process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, in particular the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), preferably nonionic or anionic; (Ii) a step of applying to said fibers b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s); it being understood that steps i) and ii) can be performed simultaneously, or sequentially, preferably steps i) and ii) are performed simultaneously.
    [0003] The invention also relates to a composition comprising: a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), preferably nonionic or anionic polysaccharide (s); and b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s).
    [0004] Another object of the invention is the use of ingredients a) and b) to improve the conditioning of keratin fibers, and / or to repair damaged keratinous fibers, and / or to prevent breakage of keratinous fibers.
    [0005] In particular, the hair treated with the process according to the invention remains disciplined because it does not show the presence of frizz. Thus the hair is aligned, smooth and disentangles easily which makes them easier to comb. The treated hair also has more body (they are not soft), and are therefore easier to comb. The treated hair has a good shaping. In addition, the treated hair is also brighter and softer to the touch. They are less brittle and more resistant. After treatment, the hair is not loaded and has a natural feel. The method according to the invention has the advantage of conferring good after-shampoo retention of these good hair conditioning cosmetic properties. Also, the treated hair is packaged sustainably.
    [0006] In what follows unless a contrary mention is said: - 25 - 30 - - 35 "salt of organic or mineral acid" is meant more particularly the salts chosen from a salt derived i) acid hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulphonic acids: Alk-S (O) 20H such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S (O) 20H such as benzene sulfonic acid and toluene sulfonic acid; (vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S (O) OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C (O) OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; furthermore, the addition salts that can be used in the context of the invention are especially chosen from addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable base, such as alkalinizing agents as defined below, such as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines; the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more"; and the term "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the range terminals fall within the defined range. A) The oxidized polysaccharides According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the oxidized polysaccharide (s) is (are) chosen from anionic and nonionic polysaccharides. By "polysaccharides" is meant glycans, polysaccharides, polyholosides or complex carbohydrates, which are polymers consisting of several monosaccharides linked to each other by 0-osidic bonds. It is more particularly polymers formed of a certain number of monosaccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: - [Cx (H 2 O) y)] - with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x = 6, and y is an integer which represents x 10 - 1, and n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly inclusive between 3 and 1000, more particularly between 5 and 500, preferably between 10 and 200, the oxidized anionic or nonionic polysaccharides consist of monosaccharide units which may comprise five or more carbon atoms, preferably six or more carbon atoms, and more particularly six carbon atoms.
    [0007] The nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprise one or more aldehydes and optionally one or more anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably carboxy or carboxylate groups. The oxidized, anionic or nonionic polysaccharides according to the invention may be represented by the following formula (I): P- (CHO), (COOX) ,, (I) Formula (I) in which: - P represents a polysaccharide chain consisting of monosaccharides comprising 5 carbon atoms or more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms and more preferably 6 carbon atoms; X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, organic amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and amino-3; propanediol-1,2 and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine and citrulline; m + n is greater than or equal to 1; m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5; N is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOX)) is in the range from 0 to 2, preferably from 0.001 to 1.5. By degree of substitution DS (CHO) or DS (COOX) the polysaccharides according to the invention means the ratio between the number of oxidized carbons in an aldehyde or carboxylic group for all the repeating units and the number of elemental monosaccharides (even opened by preoxidation) constituting the polysaccharide. The CHO and COOX groups can be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example at the O 2, O 3 or O 6 position, of a saccharide unit comprising 6 carbon atoms; Preferably, the oxidation may be O 2 and O 3, more preferably from 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number of the cycles that may have been opened. The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably selected from among inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar agars, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, xyloses and tragacanth gums and their derivatives, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, hyaluronic acid or their mixtures.
    [0008] More preferably, the polysaccharide chain is chosen from inulins or starches. More preferably still, the polysaccharide chain is inulin. By derivative is meant the compounds obtained by chemical modification of the compounds mentioned. It can be esters, amides, ethers of said compounds.
    [0009] The oxidation can be carried out according to a method known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in FR2854161 or in the article "Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses" of E. Fredon et al. , Carbohydrate Polymers 49, 2002, pages 1 to 12. Another oxidation process is described in the article "water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion" Industril Crops and Products 75 (1997) 45-52 - RE VVing, JL Villet. These oxidation processes are simple to implement, are effective, do not generate toxic byproducts or difficult to eliminate. The peroxides which may be used in these oxidation processes may be a percarbonate or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal perborate, an alkyl peroxide, peracetic acid or hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred in that it is readily accessible and does not produce troublesome byproducts. The amount of peroxide in the reaction medium is between 0.05 and 1 molar equivalent per glucose unit of the polysaccharide, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8 molar equivalent. It is preferable to add the peroxide in successive fractions, leaving the reaction medium with stirring between two additions. During the oxidation process, a single phthalocyanine or a mixture of phthalocyanines, for example a mixture of Co phthalocyanine and Fe phthalocyanine, may be used as catalyst. The amount of catalyst depends on the degree of substitution desired. In general a small amount, for example an amount corresponding to 0.003 to 0.016 molar equivalents per 100 glucose units of polysaccharide is suitable. The process can also be carried out by contacting the powdery polysaccharide with the dissolved catalyst in a small volume of water and with the peroxide. This process is referred to as a "semi-dry" process.
    [0010] The process can be carried out by reactive extrusion in the presence of peroxide. More preferably, the polysaccharide is obtained by oxidation of inulin, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, starch acetate, hydroxyethylstarch, hydroxypropylamidon, guar gum, carboxymethylguar gum, carboxymethylhydroxypropylguar gum, hydroxyethyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xylose or xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin and of hyaluronic acid or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polysaccharide is obtained by oxidation of inulin or starch, more preferably by oxidation of inulin. Preferably, the polysaccharide is obtained by oxidation of inulin. According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide is obtained by inulin oxidation by implementing a reactive extrusion process in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. The polysaccharide chain before and after oxidation preferably has a weight average molecular weight of 400 to 15000000, more preferably 500 to 1000000 and more preferably 500 to 50000 g / mol. The polysaccharides most particularly preferred in the invention are those corresponding to formula (I) in which: P represents a polymeric chain derived from inulin or starch, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or 35 a number of aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)) is in the range of 0.005 to 2.5, n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOX)) is in the range from 0.001 to 2. Even more preferably, the radical P of the formula (I) as defined above represents a polymeric chain derived from inulin, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)), is in the range from 0.01 to 1, n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOX)), is included in the ranging from 0.01 to 2. Advantageously, the oxidized polysaccharide (s) as defined above is (are) in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight. b) (poly) saccharides with amine group (s) and (poly) glucosamines The second ingredient used in the present invention is b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) . By "(poly) saccharide" is meant: i) monosaccharides comprising more than 5 carbon atoms of formula C (H 2 O) x with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is included between 5 and 7, preferably x = 20 6, ii) the polysaccharides as defined above, in particular the polysaccharides consist of monosaccharide units comprising more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 or more, and more particularly six carbon atoms; and iii) their mixtures. By "amino group (s)" is meant that the monosaccharide or the polysaccharide is substituted by one or more amino group (s) NR1R2 ie at least one of the hydroxyl groups of the saccharide unit is replaced by a group NRi R2, with R1 and R2, identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably with one or more hydroxyl or NH2 groups, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl , iv) an aryl (C1-C4) alkyl group such as benzyl, v) a (hetero) cyclo (C5-C7) alkyl group such as cyclohexyl, morpholinyl, pyperazinyl, pyperidinyl, vi) a (hetero) cyclo group (C5 -C7) alkyl (C1-C4) alkyl such as cyclohexylmethyl, vii) -C (Y) - (Y ') p-R'1 with Y and Y', identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, sulfur or N (R'2), preferably oxygen, p = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'1 and R'2 representing i) to vi) of R1 and R2 defined above. Preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom.
    [0011] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly) saccharides containing the amine group (s) of the invention are monosaccharides containing an amine group (s), preferably glucopyrans containing an amine group (s). ) or also called glucosamine. By way of examples, mention may be made of 05-7 monosaccharides substituted with one or more amino groups, in particular with 5: pentosamines. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pentosamines are chosen from aldopentosamines and ketopentosamines such as xylosamine, arabinosamine, lyxosamine, ribosamine, ribulosamine and xylulosamine. By way of examples, mention may be made of Cs-07 monosaccharides substituted with one or more amino groups, in particular with O-6: hexosamines such as aldohexosamines and ketohexosamines. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hexosamines are chosen from glucosamine, galactosamine, allosamine, altrosamine, mannosamine, gulosamine, idosamine, galactosamine, and talosamine. More particularly chosen from glucosamine and galactosamine.
    [0012] By way of examples, mention may be made of 05-7 monosaccharides substituted with one or more amino groups, in particular with 07: heptosamines such as aldoheptosamines and ketoheptosamines. More preferably, the (poly) saccharides containing the amine group (s) of the invention are glucosamines of formula (A), as well as their salts of organic or inorganic acids or bases, and its solvates such as the hydrates: Rf Formula (A) in which: Ra, Rb, Rd, Re and Rf, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group, (C1-C4) alkoxy, the alkyl group of which may be optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxy groups, carboxy groups, and a group NR1R2 with R1 and R2 as defined above, in particular R1 and R2 are chosen from the hydrogen atom and -O (O) -R'1 representing i) to vi) defined previously ; preferably R1 and R2 represent a i) hydrogen atom or ii) a group (01-06) alkyl such as methyl; It being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, -d, K Re and Rf represents a group NR1R2, preferably Rb represents a group NR1R2 such that NH2, and Re, Rd, Re and Rf represent a hydroxy group. Preferably the compounds of formula (A) are of D configuration or also called D-glucopyran. In particular, the compounds of formula (A) are of anomeric configuration f3 (beta). According to a particular embodiment, the (poly) saccharides of the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (A ') below as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral, and its solvates such as hydrates: Rf 10 Formula (A ') wherein Ra, Rb, Rd, Re and Rf are as defined for (A) above. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly) saccharides containing the amine group (s) of the invention are amine (s) group-containing polysaccharides, the oside units of which are 07 and glycoproteins comprising 05-07 saccharide units comprising one or more amine groups. More particularly, the (poly) saccharides containing the amine group (s) of the invention are polysaccharides with amine group (s), preferably the saccharide unit is glucopyranose with amine group (s). these polysaccharides with amine group (s) are then called polyglucosamines. According to one particular embodiment, the units of the polysaccharide containing the amine group (s) are of anomeric configuration f3 (beta) and / or of configuration D. According to a particular embodiment, the saccharide units of the group polysaccharide (s) amine (s) are connected to each other between the carbon atoms 1 of one osidic unit and of carbon 4 of the other saccharide unit, denoted (1-4), such as the polysaccharide with amine group (s) (s) of the following formula (B), as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or inorganic, and its solvates such as hydrates: ## STR5 ## wherein: greater than or equal to 2, especially inclusive between 3 and 1000, more particularly between 5 and 500, preferably between 10 and 200; - R ,, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group, (C1-C4) alkoxy whose alkyl group may be optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups, carboxy, and NR1R2 with R1 and R2 as defined above, in particular R1 and R2 are chosen from the hydrogen atom and -0 (O) -R'1 representing i) to vi) defined above; preferably R1 and R2 represent a i) hydrogen atom or ii) a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb OR R, represents a group N R1 R2 being understood at least one of R 1, R b and R c is NR 1 R 2, preferably R 1 is NR 1 R 2, and R b and R c are hydroxy.
    [0013] More particularly, the polysaccharide (s) containing the amine group (s) of the invention is (are) of the following formula (B '), as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral. , and its solvates such as hydrates: ## STR5 ## in which: R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkylcarbonyl group such that acetyl; R "represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group optionally substituted with a carboxy group such as -CH (CO2H) -CI-13; N is as defined for (B), preferably is an integer inclusive of between 2 and 200.
    [0014] The osidic units of formula (B) or (B ') are preferably of configuration D or also called D-glucopyran. In particular, the units of formula (B) or (B ') are of anomeric configuration f3 (beta). According to one particular embodiment, the (poly) saccharides of the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (B ") below as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral, and its solvates such as hydrates: Formula (B ") in which Ra, Rb, and Rc are as defined for (B) above and n represents an integer between 5 and 500 inclusive, especially between 10 and 300, preferably between 15 and 100 inclusive. Preferably, the polysaccharide (s) containing the amine group (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from chitin and chitosan and their derivatives, preferably chitosan. More particularly those of the following formula (B ") as well as their salts of organic or mineral acids, and its solvates such as hydrates, Formula (B") in which, - R 1 and R 2 are as defined in the formulas ( B), (B ') or (B "), preferably R 1 and R 2 represent a hydrogen atom, and n represents an integer between 5 and 500 inclusive, especially between 10 and 300, preferably inclusive between According to another particular embodiment, the (poly) saccharides containing the amine group (s) of the invention are a mixture of monosaccharides and of polysaccharides as defined above. the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) of the invention is (are) present in the composition in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by weight The compositions The composition of the invention The composition (s) of the invention comprising the ingredients a) and b) as defined above are cosmetic, ie they contain a physiologically acceptable medium. that is to say, compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin (body, face, eye area, scalp), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips.
    [0015] The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition or compositions used in the process according to the invention is advantageously an aqueous medium. It may for example consist of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example lower alcohols in 02-04, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols, especially those having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; and their mixtures.
    [0016] Preferably, the cosmetic composition (s) comprises from 50 to 99.5% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition (s). The composition (s) used according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic additives chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, fillers, dyestuffs, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, sequestering agents, film-forming polymers, plasticizers, thickeners, oils, antioxidants, anti-foaming agents, moisturizers, emollient agents, penetrating agents, perfumes and preservatives.
    [0017] The composition (s) used according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for capillary application and especially in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-water emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / W), aqueous gels, hydroalcoholic gels. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
    [0018] Preferably, the composition is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution or gel. PH of the composition (s) According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition which comprises (b) one or more monosaccharides with amine group (s) as defined above, especially glucosamine in particular of formula (A) ) or (A ') as defined above, is at a pH between 2.5 and 9.5 inclusive. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition which comprises b) one or more polysaccharides with amine group (s) as defined above, especially in particular of formula (B), (B '), (B) ") or (B '") as previously defined as chitosan, is at an acidic pH, in particular at a pH of between 1 and 6, more preferably between 2 and 5, preferably between 3 and 4. The pH may be adjusted by an organic or inorganic acid, or by an alkaline agent chosen from inorganic or organic or hybrid alkaline agents or mixtures thereof. By "organic acid" is meant an acid ie a compound capable of releasing a cation or proton H +, or H30 + in aqueous media, which comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain C-020, optionally unsaturated, linear or branched, a group ( hetero) cycloalkyl, or (hetero) aryl and at least one acidic chemical function being in particular selected from carboxy, COOH, sulfuric 503H, 502H, and phosphoric PO31-12, PO41-12.
    [0019] More particularly, the acids used are chosen from hydrochloric acid HCl, hydrobromic acid HBr, sulfuric acid H 2 O 4, alkylsulphonic acids: (C 1 -C 6) AlkS (O) 2 OH such as methylsulfonic acid and acid. ethylsulfonic acid; arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S (O) 20H such as benzene sulfonic acid and toluene sulfonic acid; (C1-C6) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S (O) OH, such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; phosphoric acid H3PO4; triflic acid CF 3 SO 3 H and tetrafluoroboric acid HBF 4 and the carboxylic acid (s) of formula (II) below: Formula (II) or a salt thereof in which: A represents a monovalent group when t is 0 or polyvalent when t is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising 1 to 50 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted, in particular By one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably A represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly the carboxylic acids of formula (II) as defined above and preferably the acid (s) used is or are an alpha hydroxy acid such as lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids. The inorganic alkaline agent (s) are preferably selected from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkaline agent (s) are organic amines, ie they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group. The organic alkaline agent or agents are more preferentially chosen from organic amines whose pKb 25 ° C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, still more preferably less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid. The organic alkaline agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, ethoxylated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (III): ## STR2 ## Formula (III) in which: - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRu; - Rx, RY, Rz Rt and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl. Preferably, the alkanolamine is ethanolamine (or monoethanolamine).
    [0020] In one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as alkali agent one or more alkanolamines (preferably ethanolamine) and ammonia. In this variant, the alkanolamine or alkanolamines are present in major amount relative to the ammonia. More preferably the pH is adjusted so that the pH is between 2.5 and 9.5 inclusive or pH inclusive of between 1 and 6, more particularly between 2 and 5, preferably between 3 and 4 using NH 4 OH or citrate buffer. The process for treating keratinous fibers The process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, implements ingredients a) and b) as defined above.
    [0021] Process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), preferably nonionic or anionic polysaccharide (s) as defined previously; and (ii) a step of applying to said fibers b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) as defined previously; it being understood that steps i) and ii) can be performed simultaneously, or sequentially, preferably steps i) and ii) are performed simultaneously. According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, steps i) and ii) are carried out simultaneously by applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising i) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s) such as defined previously; and b) one or more (poly) saccharide with amine group (s) as defined previously. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous fibers comprises an additional step iii) of heating the keratinous fibers preferably at a temperature of at least 100 ° C., in particular at a temperature included between 100 and 250 ° C. Preferably, the step of heating the keratinous fibers is carried out at a temperature ranging from 150 to 220 ° C., preferably ranging from 160 ° C. to 220 ° C., preferably ranging from 160 ° C. to 200 ° C., in particular ranging from 170 ° C to 190 ° C. It is understood that the heating temperatures are the temperatures of the heating means, in particular iron plates when it is iron, and not the temperature of the keratinous fibers. This heating step iii) is advantageously carried out by means of an iron. The heating step makes it possible to optimize the effects of the process, in particular to optimize the remanence of the cosmetic properties after one or more shampoos.
    [0022] By "iron" is meant, in the sense of the present invention, a device for heating the keratinous fibers contacting said fibers and the heating device.
    [0023] The end of the iron coming into contact with the keratin fibers generally has two flat surfaces. These two surfaces can be metallic or ceramic. In particular, these two surfaces can be smooth or notched or curved. The heating step can be carried out by means of a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron or a steam iron. Preferably, the heating step is performed by means of a smoothing iron. By way of example of irons that can be used in the smoothing process according to the invention, mention may be made of all types of flat iron, and in particular, in a nonlimiting manner, those described in patents US 5,957,140 and US 5,046,516.
    [0024] The application of the iron may be effected by successive separate keys of a few seconds, or by progressive displacement or sliding along the strands of keratinous fibers, in particular hair. Preferably, the application of the iron in the process according to the invention is in continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passages, in particular in two to twenty passages. The duration of each passage of the iron can go from 2 seconds to 1 minute. Preferably, the step of heating the keratinous fibers is carried out for a duration ranging from 2 seconds to 30 minutes, and preferably from 2 seconds to 20 minutes, better from 2 seconds to 10 minutes, better from 2 seconds to 5 minutes, and even better from 2 seconds to 2 minutes. The process according to the invention may also comprise an additional step of drying the keratinous fibers after the application of the oxidized polysaccharide and / or (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) or of the composition (s). cosines containing it and before the step of heating the keratinous fibers carried out at a temperature of at least 100 ° C. The drying step can be performed by means of a hairdryer, a helmet or by free drying. The drying step is advantageously carried out at a temperature ranging from 20 to 70 ° C. After the heating step, the keratin fibers may be optionally rinsed with water or washed with a shampoo. The keratinous fibers are then optionally dried by means of a hairdryer or a helmet or in the open air. According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention is carried out on natural keratinous fibers, in particular natural hair. According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention is implemented on keratinous fibers, in particular damaged hair. As previously noted, damaged hair is defined as dry or coarse or brittle or split or soft hair. According to another embodiment, the treatment method according to the invention is preferably carried out on keratinous fibers, in particular hair, sensitized, such as discolored fibers, artificially colored, stripped or permed. The process according to the invention can be carried out on keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which is dry or moist. Preferably, the process is carried out on dry keratinous fibers, in particular dry hair.
    [0025] The cosmetic composition (s) used according to the invention are advantageously applied to the keratin fibers in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10 grams, preferably from 0.2 to 5 grams of composition per gram of keratinous fibers. After application of the cosmetic composition to the keratinous fibers, the latter may be dewatered to remove the excess composition or washed with water or with a shampoo. After application to the keratinous fibers of ingredient a) and / or of ingredient b) as defined above, or of a cosmetic composition containing them, and before carrying out the step of heating the keratinous fibers the oxidized polysaccharide (s) and / or the (s) (poly) saccharide (s) with the amine group (s) may be applied, or the composition (s) the container or containers applied for a period ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 2 to 50 minutes, preferably from 5 to 45 minutes. The exposure time can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 15 ° C to 45 ° C, preferably at room temperature (25 ° C). According to one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the oxidized polysaccharide (s) a) as defined above and the amine group (s) (poly) saccharide (s). (s) b) as previously defined; a) and b) are present in separate cosmetic compositions. They are therefore applied separately to the keratinous fibers. According to one particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the step of applying i) or the oxidized polysaccharide (s) a) uses a composition comprising at least one oxidized polysaccharide as defined above, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.2 to 6% by weight. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the step of application ii) of the method of the (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) b) uses a composition comprising at least a (poly) saccharide with amine group (s) as defined previously in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Particularly when b) is a monosaccharide with amine group (s) as defined previously, it is in an amount of between 0.2% and 6%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferentially when b) is a polysaccharide with amine group (s) as defined above, then it is in an amount of between 0.01% and 1.5%, more preferably between 0.1% and 1, 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0026] According to another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the ingredients a) and b) as defined above are present in the same cosmetic composition. They are therefore applied simultaneously to the keratinous fibers. In this case, the preferred amounts: For a) oxidized polysaccharide (s) as defined above, the particular amount is between 0.05 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.2 and 6% by weight; For b) (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) as defined above, the particular amount is between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight Of the composition, more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When b) is a polysaccharide with amine group (s) as defined above, then it is in an amount of between 0.01% and 1.5%, more preferably between 0.1% and 1.1%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0027] According to a first embodiment of the process according to the invention, the following step is carried out: the step of applying ingredient a) as defined above, then the step of applying the ingredient b) as previously defined and then the heating step. Advantageously, ingredient a) is present in a first cosmetic composition and ingredient b) is present in a second cosmetic composition.
    [0028] This second composition is distinct from the first composition. According to a second embodiment of the process according to the invention, the following step is carried out simultaneously: the step of applying ingredient a) and the step of applying ingredient b) and then heating step. Advantageously, ingredient a) and ingredient b) are present in a single cosmetic composition.
    [0029] According to a third embodiment of the process according to the invention, the following step is carried out: the step of applying ingredient a), then the heating step, and then the step of application of ingredient b), then optionally an additional heating step. The treatment process according to the invention can be carried out before, during and / or after an additional cosmetic treatment process for keratinous fibers, such as a temporary shaping process (shaping with curlers, curling, straightening iron) or a process for shaping the keratin fibers (durable, straightening). The treatment method can be implemented in pre-treatment of a staining process, hair straightening and / or permanent process in order to cosmetically protect the keratinous fibers of these treatments. In other words, this process is performed to preserve the cosmetic properties of the keratinous fibers before a cosmetic treatment process as described above. In particular, the treatment method is carried out in post-treatment of a fading, artificial coloring, straightening and / or a permanent process in order to repair said fibers. The method according to the invention can be implemented during a cosmetic treatment process in order to repair said fibers. In particular, the treatment method according to the invention can be carried out on damaged keratinous fibers.
    [0030] In other words, the treatment method according to the invention is preferably carried out on sensitized keratinous fibers such as discolored, colored, stripped or permed fibers. In particular, the treatment process can be carried out before a process for bleaching, coloring, straightening and / or a permanent process of keratin fibers. As a variant, the treatment process may be carried out during and / or after a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous fibers, in particular: i) during and / or after a staining process or a permanent method or a straightening process keratin fibers, and ii) after a process for bleaching keratinous fibers. According to one embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention is carried out after a process for bleaching keratinous fibers. The subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment kit or device comprising: a first cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one oxidized polysaccharide as defined above; a second cosmetic composition comprising b) at least one (poly) saccharide substituted with at least one amine group; and 5 - optionally a device for heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature of at least 100 ° C, preferably ranging from 100 to 250 ° C; the first and second compositions being each packaged in a separate package. The packaging assembly of the compositions is in a known manner any packaging 10 adapted to store the cosmetic compositions (bottles, tube, spray bottle, aerosol bottle in particular). Such a kit makes it possible to implement the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention. The following examples are illustrative of the present invention.
    [0031] The amounts indicated in the examples are expressed as percentage by weight. EXAMPLES The following compositions were prepared, the percentages are mass percentages in g per 100 g of composition. Compositions Ingredients Composition 1 Water indicator MilliQ only Composition 2 Comparative Inulin Oxidized (10) * at 5% in water, spontaneous pH 3, 0 Composition 3 Comparative Glucosamine 5% in water, spontaneous pH 4.4 Composition 4 Invention 10 * 5% + Glucosamine 5% in water, spontaneous pH 3.0 Composition 5 Comparative Polyglucosamine - Chitosan ** 1% in water water, spontaneous pH 4.3 Composition 6 Invention 10 5% + Polyglucosamine - chitosan ** 1% in water, spontaneous pH 3.0 20 * Chitosan sold by Sigma Aldrich under the reference 523682. ** The polymer Inulin oxidized (10) was prepared by inulin oxidation marketed under the name "INUTEC N25" by the company Orafti, using a reactive extrusion process as described in the article "Water soluble oxidized starches by reactive peroxide extr from R. E. Wing and J. L. Willett, Industrial Crops and Products 7, 1997, pp. 45-52. A co-rotating twin-screw extruder of the type BC21 sold by the company Clextral and hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent was used. 10: is obtained by reactive extrusion of a mixture of 78% by weight of inulin and 1.57% by weight of hydrogen peroxide in water; the spontaneous pH after reactive extrusion is 3.8. Compound 1 thus obtained has a carbonyl content of 1.23% (w / w) and a carboxyl content of 0.17% (w / w).
    [0032] Evaluation protocol The keratin fiber treatment evaluation tests were carried out in the following manner: Strands of 20 cm and 1.3 g of stiff Caucasian hair were discolored (alkaline sensitivity SA 20%), then have undergone exposure to 10 cycles according to the following routine: 1) contacting locks of dry hair with a composition 1 to 5 at a rate of 2 g of composition for 1 g of hair, 30 minutes of immersion at 40 ° C ; 2) spinning of the locks, then drying with a hair dryer 60 ° C with a soft brush passage; 3) Application of the straightener at 190 ° C, 5 passes of 9 seconds; 4) Wetting of the locks with tap water, application of a shampoo comprising 2% of lauryl ether sulfate (% in g per 100 g of composition), massage for 15 seconds and thorough rinsing with water at 37 ° C. for 10 minutes. seconds; 5) Helmet drying at 60 ° C for 10 minutes. Shampoo retention: repetition of 9 times the sequence of steps 4 and 5 described above. Evaluations 30 Touching: After application and drying, the locks were evaluated sensory dry by 5 people from the laboratory trained in sensory evaluation on hair, using tactile criteria. Only the ends of the locks (last 3 cm) were evaluated. A scoring of 1 (very rusty locks to the touch) to 5 (wicks very soft to the touch) has been assigned. The averages of these scores are reported. Detangling: Comb combing tests were carried out after immersion for 10 seconds in water by 5 passes of small tooth plastic comb (7 teeth / cm, teeth diameter about 800 μm). A scoring of 1 (very difficult to disentangle wicks) to 5 3033498 22 (wicks very easy to disentangle) has been assigned. The averages of these scores are reported. Results: 5 Protocol 1: application ingredient a) oxidized polysaccharide (oxidized inulin) + b) monosaccharide amine group (glucosamine) applied together on keratinous fibers followed by a heat treatment with a straightening iron Compositions Average score of softness of dry locks after 1 shampoo after 10 shampoos Composition 1 3.1 3.1 Composition 2 3.4 3.3 Composition 3 3.6 3.4 Composition 4 4.2 3.8 10 Wicks treated with composition 4 according to the invention are perceived as softer than the locks treated by the other comparative compositions and this after 1 or even 10 shampoos. Protocol 2: Application Ingredient a) oxidized polysaccharide (oxidized inulin) + b) polysaccharide with amine groups (chitosan) applied together on keratinous fibers followed by heat treatment with a smoothing iron Composition Average score of softness of dry ends in dry point after 1 shampoo after 10 shampoos Composition 1 2,3 2,2 Composition 2 2,4 2,4 Composition 5 3,0 2,6 Composition 6 3,4 3,1 Protocol 2 Composition Average score of ease of disentanglement in wet after 1 shampoo after 10 shampoos Composition 1 2,2 2,3 3033498 23 Composition 2 1,9 2,1 Composition 5 3,7 3,0 Composition 6 4,1 3,3 The locks treated with composition 6 according to the invention are perceived as softer in dry point and easier to disentangle with the wet comb than the locks treated by the other compositions, after 1 or even 10 shampoos.
    [0033] These results show that the combination of ingredients a) and b) in particular of a) Oxidized Inulin and b) glucosamine leads to better sensory results than ingredients a) or b) taken alone, with improved dryness and dryness. that this effect is residual to 10 shampoos.
    [0034] It has also been observed that the combination of ingredients a) and b) in particular of a) Oxidized Inulin and b) polyglucosamine improves the perceived wet disentangling facility and dry point softness, compared to ingredients taken alone. It has been observed that this effect is persistent even after 10 shampoos. 15
    权利要求:
    Claims (22)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A method of treating keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of applying to said fibers a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), preferably nonionic or anionic polysaccharide (s); (ii) a step of applying to said fibers b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s); it being understood that steps i) and ii) can be performed simultaneously, or sequentially, preferably steps i) and ii) are performed simultaneously.
    [0002]
    2. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the oxidized polysaccharide (s) a) comprise one or more aldehyde groups and optionally one or more anionic groups, in particular the anionic groups are carboxyl or carboxylate groups.
    [0003]
    3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said oxidized polysaccharide (s) a) is represented by the following formula (I): P- (CHO) m (COOX) n (I) Formula (I) in which: - P represents a polysaccharide chain; X represents a hydrogen atom, or an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, organic amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino-propanediol; 1,2 and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline, m + n is greater than or equal to 1; m is the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS (CHO)), which is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5; n is the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS (COOX)), which is in the range from 0 to 2, preferably from 0.001 to 1.5.
    [0004]
    4. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polysaccharide chain is selected from celluloses, starches, guar gums, inulins, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agard'agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, xylan and their derivatives, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, hyaluronic acid.
    [0005]
    5. Method according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the polysaccharide chain is chosen from celluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, starches, carboxymethyl celluloses, and inulins, and preferably inulin.
    [0006]
    6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which b) the 10 or the (poly) saccharides containing amine group (s) are (are) chosen from amine group (s) monosaccharides (s). ), preferably glucopyran group (s) amine (s) or glucosamine.
    [0007]
    7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) selected from amine group (s) monosaccharides (s). ): pentosamines, particularly aldopentosamines and ketopentosamines such as xylosamine, arabinosamine, lyxosamine, ribosamine, ribulosamine and xylulosamine; hexosamines such as aldohexosamines and ketohexosamines, glucosamine, galactosamine, allosamine, altrosamine, mannosamine, gulosamine, idosamine, galactosamine, and talosamine, more particularly chosen from glucosamine, and galactosamine; and heptosamines such as aldoheptosamines and ketoheptosamines. 25
    [0008]
    8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) chosen from monosaccharides containing an amine group (s). glucosamines of formula (A) and their salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral, and its solvates such as hydrates: Rf 30 Formula (A) in which: - Ra, Rb, Rd, Re and Rf , identical or different, represent a hydroxy group, (CiC4) alkoxy whose alkyl group may be optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups, carboxy, and a group NR1R2 with R1 and R2, identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably one or more hydroxyl or NH2 groups, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl (C1-C4) alkyl group such as benzyl, v) a (hetero) cyclo (C6-C7) alkyl group such as cyclohexyl, morpholinyl, pyperazinyl, pyperidinyl, vi) a (hetero) cyclo (C6-C7) alkyl (C1-C4) alkyl group such as cyclohexylmethyl, vii) -C (Y) - (Y ') p-R'1 with Y and Y', which are identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, sulfur or N (R'2), preferably oxygen, p = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'1 and R'2 representing i) to vi) of R1 and R2 defined above. Preferably, R 1 and R 2 represent a hydrogen atom, in particular R 1 and R 2 are chosen from the hydrogen atom and -O (O) -R '1 representing i) to vi) defined above; preferably R1 and R2 represent a i) hydrogen atom or ii) a (ClC6) alkyl group such as methyl; it being understood that at least one of Ra, Rb, Rd, Re and Rf is NR1R2, preferably Rb is NR1R2 such as NH2, and Re, Rd, Re and Rf are hydroxy; preferably the compounds of formula (A) are of configuration D; especially the compounds of formula (A) are of anomeric configuration f3 (beta).
    [0009]
    9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) selected from amine group (s) monosaccharides (s). ), the glucosamines of the following formula (A ') as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or mineral, and its solvates such as hydrates: Rf 25 Formula (A') in which Ra, Rb, Rd, Re and Rf are as defined for (A) in the preceding claim.
    [0010]
    10. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) chosen from amine group polysaccharides (s). (s), especially the saccharide unit is glucopyranose group (s) amine (s), or polyglucosamines; preferentially, the amide groups of the amine (s) polysaccharide are of anomeric configuration f3 (beta) and / or of configuration D; particularly the amide units of the polysaccharide with amine group (s) are connected to each other at (1-4). 3033498 27
    [0011]
    11. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) chosen from amine group (s) polysaccharides ( s), of the following formula (B), as well as its salts of acids or bases, organic or inorganic, and its solvates such as hydrates: (B) Formula (B) in which: n is a higher integer or equal to 2, especially inclusive between 3 and 1000, more particularly between 5 and 500, preferably between 10 and 200; - Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group, (C1-C4) alkoxy whose alkyl group may be optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups, carboxy, and a group NR1R2 with R1 and R2 such as defined in claim 8, in particular R1 and R2 are selected from hydrogen and -O (O) -R'1 representing i) to vi) as defined in claim 8; preferably R1 and R2 represent a i) hydrogen atom or ii) a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb or Rc represents a group N R1 R2 being understood that at least one of Ra, Rb, and Rc is NR1R2, preferably Ra is NR1R2, and Rb and Rc are hydroxy; The osidic units of formula (B) are preferably of configuration D. In particular, the units of formula (B) are of anomeric configuration p.
    [0012]
    The process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) selected from amine group polysaccharide (s). (s), of formula (B ') following, and its salts of acids or bases, organic or inorganic, and its solvates such as hydrates: ## STR2 ## (B ') in which: R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl; R "represents a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group; with a carboxy group such as -CH (CO2H) -CI-13; - n is as defined for (B), preferably is an integer inclusive between 2 and 200; The osidic units of formula (B ') are preferably of configuration D, particularly the units of formula (B') are of anomeric configuration p.
    [0013]
    13. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which b) the amine (s) (poly) saccharide (s) is (are) chosen from amine group (s) polysaccharides ( s), of the following formula (B ") as well as its salts of organic or inorganic acids or bases, and its solvates such as the hydrates: Formula (B") in which Ra, Rb and Rc are such as defined for (B) in claim 11 and n represents an integer inclusive of between 5 and 500, particularly preferably between 10 and 300, preferably between 15 and 100 inclusive; preferably, the polysaccharide (s) containing the amine group (s) is (are) chosen from chitin and chitosan and their derivatives, preferably chitosan, more particularly those of formula (B "), as well as that their salts of organic or mineral acids, and solvates such as hydrates, Formula (B ") in which, - R1 and R2 are as defined in formulas (B), (B ') of claims 11 or 12 or (B "), preferably R 1 and R 2 represent a hydrogen atom, and 5 - n represents an integer between 5 and 500, especially between 10 and 300, preferably between 15 and 100 inclusive.
    [0014]
    14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the step of applying i) the oxidized polysaccharide (s) a) uses a composition comprising at least one oxidized polysaccharide as defined. in any one of claims 1 to 5, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from from 0.2 to 6% by weight. 15
    [0015]
    15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the step of applying ii) the (poly) saccharide (s) with amino group (s) b) uses a composition comprising at least one at least one (poly) saccharide containing an amine group (s) as defined in any one of Claims 6 to 13 in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, plus especially between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly when b) is a monosaccharide with amine group (s) as defined in claims 6 to 9 then it is found in an amount of between 0.2% to 6%, relative to the total weight of the composition and when b) is a polysaccharide with 25 amine group (s) as defined in any one of Claims 10 to 13, then it is in an amount of between 0.01% and 1.5%, more preferably between 0.1% and 1.1% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0016]
    16. A process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the step of applying ii) the at least one (poly) saccharide (s) to the amine (s) group (s) employs a composition comprising at least one monosaccharide with amine group (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 10, the pH of which is between 2.5 and 9.5 inclusive; or employs a composition comprising at least one monosaccharide with amine group (s) as defined in any one of Claims 11 to 13, whose pH is acidic, in particular between 1 and 6 inclusive, more particularly between 2 and 5, preferably between 3 and 4.
    [0017]
    17. The method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the steps i) and ii) are carried out simultaneously by applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising i) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s) such as ) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 and 14; and b) one or more (poly) saccharide with amino group (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 13, 15 and 16. 10
    [0018]
    18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises an additional heating step iii) which is carried out at a temperature ranging from 100 to 250 ° C., preferably ranging from 150 to 220 ° C., preferably ranging from 160 ° C. C at 220 ° C, more preferably from 160 ° C to 200 ° C, preferably this step occurs after steps i) and ii); particularly the heating step is performed with a smoothing iron.
    [0019]
    19. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is carried out in the following order: i) the application of one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s) such (s) as defined (s) in any one of claims 1 to 5 and 14 or a first cosmetic composition (s) containing; and then ii) the step of applying b) one or more (poly) saccharide with amino group (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 13 and 15 or a first cosmetic composition containing them; then optionally iii) the heating step as defined in claim 18
    [0020]
    20. A composition comprising: a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, 14; and b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with anionic amine group (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 13, 15 and 16.
    [0021]
    21. Use a) of one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, 14; and b) one or more (poly) saccharide (s) with anionic amine group (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 13, 15 and 16, to improve conditioning the keratinous fibers, and / or for repairing the damaged keratinous fibers, and / or for preventing keratin fibers from breaking.
    [0022]
    22. A multi-compartment kit or device comprising: a first composition comprising a) one or more oxidized polysaccharide (s), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5; , 14; and a second composition comprising b) one or more anionic amine group (s) (poly) saccharide (s) as defined in any one of claims 6 to 13, and 16; and optionally a device for heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature of at least 100 ° C., preferably ranging from 100 to 250 ° C. the first and second compositions being each packaged in a separate package.
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    FR3083105A1|2020-01-03|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINIC FIBERS USING A MONOSACCHARIDE AND AN AMINE GROUP POLYSACCHARIDE
    FR3090347A1|2020-06-26|Process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising a salt of carnitine or of a carnitine derivative comprising an anion of aliphatic dicarboxylic acid
    FR3090343A1|2020-06-26|Process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising a salt of carnitine or of a carnitine derivative comprising an aromatic organic anion
    EP1047400B1|2002-05-08|Cosmetic compositions containing an anionic alkylpolyglycoside ester surfactant and a silicone and their uses
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US20180049964A1|2018-02-22|
    BR112017017218A2|2018-04-03|
    WO2016142551A1|2016-09-15|
    US20210145725A1|2021-05-20|
    US10940102B2|2021-03-09|
    FR3033498B1|2018-03-23|
    EP3268088A1|2018-01-17|
    BR112017017218B1|2021-09-08|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US20030053977A1|2001-03-30|2003-03-20|Cannell David W.|Compositions comprising at least one aminated C5-C7 saccharide unit, and their use for the protection and/or repair of keratinous fibers|
    US20080063617A1|2006-09-07|2008-03-13|Abrahams John M|Cosmetics formulations|
    US20090270346A1|2008-04-24|2009-10-29|Medtronic, Inc.|Protective gel based on chitosan and oxidized polysaccharide|
    EP2415455A1|2010-08-05|2012-02-08|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Conditioning composition for hair|
    WO2013132062A1|2012-03-09|2013-09-12|L'oreal|Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres using anionic oxidized polysaccharides|FR3070269A1|2017-08-31|2019-03-01|L'oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS FROM AMINO GROUP MONOSACCHARIDE, AMINE GROUP POLYSACCHARIDE THEN HEAT|
    WO2020047017A1|2018-08-30|2020-03-05|L'oreal|Hair-treatment compositions and methods of use|DE2754796A1|1977-12-09|1979-06-13|Wella Ag|HAIR CONDITIONER AND HAIR DETERGENT|
    US5046516A|1988-10-31|1991-09-10|George Barradas|Hair curling iron|
    US5957140A|1998-11-19|1999-09-28|Mcgee; Robert J.|Hair styling iron for straightening and curling|
    US6486105B1|2001-03-30|2002-11-26|L'oreal S.A.|Heat activated durable conditioning compositions comprising C3 to C5 monosaccharides, and methods for using same|
    US7459150B2|2001-03-30|2008-12-02|L'ORéAL S.A.|Heat activated durable conditioning compositions comprising an aminated C5 to C7 saccharide unit and methods for using same|
    FR2842200B1|2002-07-12|2005-12-16|Centre Nat Rech Scient|PROCESS FOR OBTAINING MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDES|
    FR2854161B1|2003-04-28|2008-02-22|Centre Nat Rech Scient|CRYSTALLINE POLYSACCHARIDE DERIVATIVES, PROCESSES FOR THEIR PRODUCTION AND THEIR APPLICATIONS|
    FR2944967B1|2009-04-30|2011-04-08|Oreal|USE OF AN OXIDE POLYSACCHARIDE FOR PROTECTING THE COLOR OF KERATIN FIBERS; COLORING PROCESSES|EP3641725A1|2017-06-23|2020-04-29|The Procter and Gamble Company|Composition and method for improving the appearance of skin|
    FR3083106B1|2018-06-29|2020-10-02|Oreal|PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS USING A MONOSACCHARIDE, A POLYSACCHARIDE WITH AMINO GROUPS AND A COLORING MATTER|
    FR3083105B1|2018-06-29|2020-10-02|Oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC FIBERS USING A MONOSACCHARIDE AND A POLYSACCHARIDE WITH AMINO GROUPS|
    WO2021108508A1|2019-11-27|2021-06-03|L'oreal|Hair treatment compositions, kits, and methods of use|
    US10959933B1|2020-06-01|2021-03-30|The Procter & Gamble Company|Low pH skin care composition and methods of using the same|
    法律状态:
    2016-02-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-09-16| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160916 |
    2017-02-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2018-02-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-02-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-02-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2022-01-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1552066A|FR3033498B1|2015-03-12|2015-03-12|PROCESS FOR PROTECTING AND REPAIRING KERATIN FIBERS FROM OXIDE POLYSACCHARIDE AND AMINO GROUPSACCHARIDE|
    FR1552066|2015-03-12|FR1552066A| FR3033498B1|2015-03-12|2015-03-12|PROCESS FOR PROTECTING AND REPAIRING KERATIN FIBERS FROM OXIDE POLYSACCHARIDE AND AMINO GROUPSACCHARIDE|
    EP16711188.9A| EP3268088A1|2015-03-12|2016-03-14|Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres, based on oxidized polysaccharide and on saccharide with amine group|
    US15/557,304| US10940102B2|2015-03-12|2016-03-14|Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres, based on oxidized polysaccharide and on saccharide with amine group|
    BR112017017218-6A| BR112017017218B1|2015-03-12|2016-03-14|PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS, USE OF OXIDIZED INULIN, AND MULTI-COMPARTMENT OR DEVICE KIT|
    PCT/EP2016/055435| WO2016142551A1|2015-03-12|2016-03-14|Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres, based on oxidized polysaccharide and on saccharide with amine group|
    US17/162,954| US20210145725A1|2015-03-12|2021-01-29|Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres, based on oxidized polysaccharide and on saccharide with amine group|
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